Tuesday, January 27, 2015

Pattern Fitting trial with Lutterloh


This Lutterloh adventure is coming along quite nicely, as I've already taken a trial on the vest pattern included in later editions. The vest pattern is designed for women and is intended to help illustrate what fitting changes will be standard for our individual Lutterloh patterns in the future.

The first step to using the vest fitting pattern is enlarging the base pattern, using the special ruler included in your Lutterloh set. Please read the Come Sew Lutterloh with Me blog for more information. It is a treasure trove of help!

Tips/Steps from my experience:
  1. Gather your tools:
    • Ruler kit, push pin, tape, french curve or curled ruler
  1. It helps to have something beneath your pattern to push the pin into. I used a cardboard mat beneath my pattern & paper, and added a second square of cardboard beneath the mat so I could push the pin farther into my pattern without damaging my floor (or table)
  2. Measure properly! Watch the instructional video on Lutterloh's website about pattern fitting and grading. It's helpful to see what you are getting into.
  3. Grading: I'm wearing some winter weight right now but I'm not going to by shy about my measurements. My high bust measures ~86 cm, my full bust is between 89 and 90 cm, and my full hip (the fullest part of my bottom half) is 110 cm. We have two options:
    1. Grade the upper half of the pattern, INCLUDING the waist, at our full bust measurement as instructed, and grade the lower half using our hip measurement. Then we can adjust for things such as narrow shoulders, larger waist, full bust, etc as needed.
    2. Grade the shoulders/neckline and armscye midpoint (basically the middle of the armscye) on our high bust measurement for a better fit through the shoulders, then finish grade the lower portion of the upper half (lower armscye, side seam, waist, etc) with our full bust measurement. I found this gives me a much better fit through shoulders and I have fewer alterations to make. Use full hip measurement for all points BELOW the waist point.
      • *** This method is not endorsed by Lutterloh. I recommend trying approach 1 first to see how it works for you-- but if the shoulder/neckline area of your garments are often too large based on your full bust measurement, I suspect approach 2 might work for you. Or you can Just make a full bust adjustment if your waist measurement is closer in line to the result of grading entirely with your high bust measurement. Basically, make it work for you.
  1. Trace the pattern, sew a muslin, and evaluate the fit. The waist darts don't have plot points, so you need to align them with the shoulder/neckline plot point vertically, then draft them yourself. I didn't bother with this when working the paper pattern and regretted it on my muslin since I was left to just pinch out the darts as needed. It wasn't even and I took in too much at the waist, but I understood the intent and moved on. In the future, I will grade the waist darts like this: measure my total waist circumference of the pattern, determine what my final waist measurement should be (including ease), and divide the difference among the darts as appropriate. I will adjust the waist darts to the shape that bust suits my body, with the dart tips ending at the proper point on below my bust and/or back. Make sense?
My muslin looks ok... but I plan to make modifications this week. The shoulders seem to fit properly for a vest, the waist feels a few cm low, and the bust might be a tad tight for a vest. 

I think I may need to narrow the shoulders a bit. In the future, I might need to draft a slight FBA but I find vintage patterns from mid- 40's - early 60's usually give me extra room as needed in the bust area. I'll pay attention to the waistline on future vintage patterns as I might need to grade out a slight amount there since I won't typically wear a girdle or corset. 

The darts sewn here are too large at waistline-- see the drag lines? This is in part because its a bit tight, and partly because of the length. 

The back of my vest only has darts pinned at the apex so it's not representative. It's easy to tell, however, that it will need work. I am short between the neck and waist and will take out a pinch there, and a narrow shoulder adjustment seems appropriate too. My shoulders look rather sloped too. Once I adjust my darts and sew properly, I will post more pictures with alterations as described. 

Where I had trouble:

  1. See the extra lines on the bottom half of my vest? That's because I initially forgot to plot the points based on my hip measurement! Oops! I am ignoring the blue lines on the bottom half and paying attention to orange instead. When I made a mistake, I found the correcting to a different color helped me cut where I intended.
  2. I had some pretty sharp angles at the waist. I might grade this into a more natural curve depending on the pattern. 
  3. My hip measurement is SIGNIFICANTLY larger than my bust measurement, proportionally speaking. I looked at some of those plotting dots and thought "Seriously?? This is what I should connect?" I did. It worked. I was surprised.
    • The plotting dot at center front seemed really out of line and I wonder if it might give me more room than I want/need. In the future, I might grade this closer in line to the other dots at center front. We'll see.
Older editions of Lutterloh do not have this specific vest pattern-- it appears to have come along once the binder-style editions of Lutterloh were released instead of the old book styles. Regardless, I found the vest is available for free if you sign up for the mailing list at the New Zealand Lutterloh website. The free pattern will be emailed to you shortly after adding yourself to the list.

PS. Sorry about the poor quality night-time pictures. Sewing often gets done in the evenings, and though the days are starting to get longer, I'm dealing with poor light during most of my non-work hours.

Thursday, January 22, 2015

Vintage Lutterloh Sewalong

Hi friends!

I've been reading my vintage Lutterloh books with longing (except the German one... I just stare) and have even given attempt at drafting a pattern with decent result. I'd really enjoy having other people with whom I can discuss the efforts, and my friend Emily and I got talking about how this would be a fun group project.
1949 Lutterloh
The Lutterloh system is based on the golden rule-- that our body is proportionate and so the patterns draft up from a drawing based on your bust and hip measurements. I encourage you to read their information online, watch their videos, and do some google work to see how others do it. As it is, the two of us are going to give it a shot and all of you that have your own books (Lutterloh maintains copyright) are invited to join. If you feel like joining, send me your blog address and I'll link it here so we can reference who might be posting. Instagram is my favorite platform (helllooooo lazy) so I'll post there most frequently with #lutterlohalong. I'll also post the projects on the newly formed (!!!) WeSewRetro Sew & Tell facebook group!

1954 Lutterloh
Our first steps will be to draft a basic pattern to check the fit-- Lutterloh recommends first drafting the basic vest (from the more modern binder kits), then you will find what minor pattern adjustments you will need to make with every Lutterloh you will draft in the future. Such changes might include full bust adjustments, lengthen/shorten, moving darts, etc. Overall, the adjustments should be straightforward and rather minor since we are drafting to our measurements.

1954 Lutterloh
Do you have any of the vintage books? The modern ones? What has been your luck with the drafting and sewing? I think it's important to note that to use the vintage Lutterloh books one must have a basic knowledge of pattern construction and sewing techniques, plus have a few vintage sewing books to reference. The Lutterloh system includes the patterns, but no instructions, no info to where openings (zippers, clasps, etc) might go, and we're expected to draft our own facings, pockets, figure out linings, etc.

1954 Lutterloh
PS. I have a few books from the late 40's and early 50's, plus a 1970's edition with supplements, and two 1980's books-- but it's the early editions that really get me excited. I mean, look! Behold the beauty!

Sewing Advance 9464, a vintage skirt pattern

Hi friends! Did you know this blog post has been in draft form for over a year? It turns out I had a bunch of sewing entries just waiting for pictures to publish-- not sure why I did that. Moving on...

Advance 9464
This pattern was a real delight to sew. The waist of the pattern matched my measurements but I carry a little extra something at the hips, so I graded out a couple inches at the sides. Easy-peasy. This pattern is wonderful because it uses only ONE yard of 54" fabric, which conveniently is often the width of wool. Yay! Also, extremely easy sewing since it is a front, 2 back pieces with a zipper, and a waistband.

I love sewing with wool. The stitches sink right in.
I grabbed the fabric from my stash, surely having spent no more than $5 total on the fabric. The plaid was grabbed from our local crafty reuse store, Scrap, and was old coat pieces left as scraps. I pieced together the plaid on the bias for trim, then sewed it into a tube. Pressed flat and sewn down, it worked quite well! You will see, however, that I must have stretched the trim as I was sewing since one side seems to be pulling up on the hem. The buttons are self-covered with the same scrap fabric.

Sorry for the grainy shot-- I enlarged to show the bias trim detail.
And, that's it! Wear and be happy. Sewing with vintage patterns brings me loads of joy, mostly because the design details are adorable and because I love feeling like I got a deal. This project cost under $10 total-- though next time, I'll line (maybe underline, as well) the skirt and raise the cost just a smidge.

Can you spot the St. Bernard?

Sewing Vintage Vogue 9103

I once made a crack to my boyfriend that the only thing from the 1970's that I love is him. This pattern made me question that assertion, but in the end it's mostly true.

Vogue 9103
This Vogue dress has been in my stash for ages because I really admire the neckline detail. I generally think of A-line dresses as pretty flattering, and if I'd tried harder to get the proper fit it probably could have been my favorite but I JUST . DONT . LEARN.  Let's talk about the pattern and finished dress first.

1. I love pockets, but these were a little narrow because of the stitching up the secret pocket in the center front panel. I'd leave the stitching out of it and have one big pocket.
2. Princess seams = awesome. Great design.
3. PLASTRON!!!!!!!

Use your favorite vintage fabric! Also, transfer the markings onto the plastron before sewing/mitering the corners. I failed, and had to patch my fabric because I sewed wrong and trimmed, then realized my pressing error. Duh.
4. Invisible zipper = yum. My favorite.
5. Armscye facing? Meh to facings. I'd probably replace it w/ a bias binding in the future.

Easing the hem.
I measured the various panels and said, "Sure, this will fit and gives me lots of ease through the hips!" I thought, "Sure, my bust is measuring pretty close to 34 (33.5") because I'm wearing my winter weight right now (nevermind this is a summer dress) so that's about right!

You know what? That secret pocket in the center front panel of the dress took out some of the measured ease because it wants ease to exist between pocket bags and front panel, you know, so your hankie isn't quit so visible... so bam. Hips = tight. I shortened the dress an inch at the waist, and cut a few inches from the hem to use yardage from my stash... but you know what? The bust tip sits a solid 1.5" below my full bust, AND it's too big. I KNOW BETTER. I've fit things properly. I know that my shoulders are narrow, my ribcage slight, that a 34" bust pattern will require grading through the areas that make it tough.... so I generally stick to the proper size for my bone structure and give myself an FBA (full bust adjustment) and grade out for my fleshy mid and lower half.

I love the blind hem presser foot.

HA. I'm laughing. I hate that I know better than to sew garments w/out proper fitting. Oh well. Onto the next project!

Me Made May 2014

Monday, October 28, 2013

McCall's 9682 (1969), second time around

The original skirt I made from this pattern has earned itself heavy use by being the most comfortable and stylish skirt I've vet made, so a new take on an old favorite was overdue.

I shortened the hem on this one to accommodate limited yardage (not the 1st time-- this is what I often do because I LOVE vintage fabric), and kept my original pattern mod of expanding the waistband an inch. Otherwise it's pretty much the same.

Vintage patterns really strike my fancy, especially when I find ways to honor their original intent when I create them. Like its predecessor, this skirt features a solid metal zip from the endless grab bag of goodwill reclaimed supplies. 

I finished all my edges with the serger/overlocker (thanks mom for the equipment!) and think it's more durable than the seam biding that has frayed off the edges of my other skirt.

While I originally thought this was a stiff, treated cotton it must actually be a poly/cotton blend. My iron said so. Note to self, burn test everything!

I thought I could get away without interfacing the waistband but it looked horrid, and was rather annoying to take apart after I'd topstitched. I knew better but just REALLY wanted to cheat.  I treated the skirt to a blind hem, courtesy of a simple setting on my machine and made sure to reposition those pockets that were originally sewn upside down. OOPS. Someday I'll stop making silly mistakes.

Easy peasy. A happy skirt into the rotation, though no finished product pictures. Happy sewing!

Sewing the Anna Dress in wool

The social media universe is an interesting place to be. My world has expanded and I've found many interesting people (some of my best) this way, and along the path I've picked up numerous sewing feeds.

The Anna Dress came to me this way --from following seamstresses on Instagram that posted pretty pictures of By Hand London projects. When the independent pattern company announced their sew along I hopped on board, promptly spending too much money on delicious silk. Of course, then I was too scared to use it. And then autumn ushered in Portland's rainy days and I felt far more interested in wool.

I traced the pattern weeks ago (US size 4) and on Wednesday I finally knocked out a muslin for fitting. I'm a fair pear in body shape and find this design very flattering -- skimming and flaring in all the right places. Thursday I walked my dog to goodwill and found this fabulous vintage green wool for only $4.99, and when I came home I got to cutting, then overlocked all my pieces to prep for sewing.

I added an inch to the waist, grading down to the hips, and then worried it wouldn't be quite enough ease and sewed the side seams of the dress at 3/8" instead of 5/8". Once the final dress was constructed I worried it was too much ease but it seems just right for the office. I've already had numerous compliments, and the comfort and fit rival my other favorite dress-- my denim Hawthorn by Colette Patterns. I anticipate sewing this pattern again and again!

This was a birthday gift to myself and 28 in wool feels pretty fantastic. My boyfriend took me pumpkin picking and we had loads of fun (and calories-- good thing I had room).

Sewing thoughts: my first invisible zipper, this scared me. I used my overlock stitching as a guide for zipper placement and basted it on before I actually stitched. My local bernina store doesn't stock old-style feet, so I sewed this up with a regular zipper foot and am SO pleased. It's so invisible that a coworker asked how I got into the dress!

I did two rows of stitching on the arm holes, and same for the narrow hem I chose-- wanted to keep the length. I turned a 1/4" pressed, and turned and pressed a 1/4" again, then stitched. 

The dress asked for a lining so I bought enough rayon in orange to make it work, but then decide to rush and finish it without. A slip does fine, and I don't mind wool against my skin. 

Happy sewing!

Tuesday, September 10, 2013

Sewing Hawthorn 1026 by Colette Patterns

ALERT: I stopped blogging because my life got REALLY FREAKING EXCITING. Sorry about that. I moved to Portland. I became immersed in vintage fabric and sewing pattern beauty. I met this amazing guy that swept me off my feet. I biked my butt off for pedalpalooza. I adopted a St. Bernard that weighs as much as I do. HE IS HUGE. And I started a new job in Human Services that is pretty awesome. Moving forward... (with a delay of many months)

This pattern was just too good to be true-- a shirtwaist dress with a semi-circle skirt, an opportunity to test a pattern before release, a pattern name that happened to be the neighborhood I'd just moved to after relocating to PDX from Seattle, and a pattern number that matches my birthday.

 I WIN!!!!!! They must have made this one just for me.

I love the way the skirt swings and twirls when I walk, dance, play, etc. My friend Emily gave (read: gives) me a hard for wearing this dress too many days per week, but this is the article of clothing that I feel best in. I took the time to try and get the fit right (sewed my first muslin!) and found that I fell somewhere between size 0 and 2 in this pattern size range. I graded from 0 at the bust to 2 at the waist and had to increase the armscye dept, but otherwise this pattern fit like a charm.

Sewing details? Easy breezy. Colette Patterns have in-depth and some of the best instructions/illustrations for sewing and assembly-- their work is geared toward the burgeoning seamstress and encourages us to learn new techniques or perfect simple things like topstitching. My biggest struggle with this dress is silly in retrospect, but that armscye binding nearly brought me tears. Mind you, this was pre-pattern release and I haven't seen how the instructions have changed, but I read and re-read and read again to no avail. I watched youtube videos. I looked at other books. I was like WHY THE FRACK* IS THIS SO HARD FOR ME?

At the time this was happening the Laurel sewalong (with its many amazing prizes) was taunting me-- I knew I didn't have time to try and slam TWO dresses out. Moving across state lines was hard and I had to hurry and unpack my sewing goods to get going on Hawthorn, and then I broke down and gave up. I just couldn't finish those FREAKING ARMHOLES.And those buttons TAKE FOREVER. I'm just learning to love hand-sewing so don't get mad at me.

 Fast forward: I cheated on my commitment to Hawthorn by just taking a little peak at what Laurel had to offer. I wasn't ACTUALLY cheating, there was no other sewing taking its place, but just a look ya know? That little booklet of extras? That won't hurt anyone.

IT'S A MIRACLE. Therein lies the answers for one struggling with bias binding! ITS EASY! Just read the tutorial in the free booklet of extras and don't be an idiot! SEE! A pretty red contrast binding.

Project details: A lightweight denim that I bought from goodwill for under $10, and this dress didn't even use half the yardage. Vintage/reclaimed bone buttons. If you look closely, each of these buttons is different and they all appear to have been made by hand. Contrast bias binding for the armscye. Hand-stitched hem. And top-stitching/edge-stitching that is less than perfect because the tension on my machine was EFFED.

Good news, I had my machine serviced at Modern Domestic and got it back just in time to start my next pattern testing project. Weee! I'll show you that pretty piece in one week... once the next pattern is released. :)

*Note: random Battlestar Galactica reference